Mid week asault on Greatend

After our walk on the Sunday I knew the routes would be in good condition albeit on the lean side. Fortunately I had one day’s holiday left that I had been saving for just such an occasion. A call to Barney sorted out my partner for the day and the weather look ok so all the ingredients where in place for a mid week assault on Greatend, and hopefully miss out on the usual weekend crowds. Even though it was mid week I wasn’t taking any chances so 7.30 am we where the first team off in temps not as cold as I would have liked. As we gained height and reached the bottom of Greatend things where looking very good, Barney hadn’t been there before so was happy to do anything. South East Gully looked the best line on the crag so it was an easy choice to make. Moving together on the easier sections we made good progress, I’d decided to climb leash less which I nearly came to regret as my feet cut through the sugary ice and I left one axe behind only just managing to avoid falling off! And we where only on the grade 2 section.
Having lead the crux pitch with Rick last year I thought it would be a good one to let Barney cut his teeth on. Watching Barney I could see it was steep and by the time he’d got to the crux it was getting the better of him and a sling around an icicle just wasn’t enough to convince him to carry on. Quick retreat and shuffty of the ropes and it was my turn, I was tempted to get my leashes out but decided not to as I was determined to get to grips with climbing with out them. Soon I was at Barneys high point, and yes it was very steep, quite hard for Gr3 but that not unusual for gully climbs to be hard. I was surprised how relaxed I felt with a left axe behind a chockstone and right one in some neve I teetered up the icicle to pull over on to easier ground. Fantastic pitch in superb condition I was buzzing and was starting to get my winter head back on.
Barney soon followed me up and climbed through to pulled out on to the summit slopes, his first route on Greatend and what a classic.
The day was still young and if we got our act together we could get another route in, so a quick decent to the base of the crag for lunch and assess our next move. Looking back up we could see there where at least 2 teams in Central Route, I’d fancied doing the left and branch which I’d not done for over 15 years. Time for a bite to eat and let the crowds get higher. Fed and rested we decided to climb the Gr2 pitches together, with Barney leading out in front with me seconding but keeping close to the end of the rope and act as a moving belay. Soon we were in the Amphitheater where the route has several finishes. One team were moving slow on the easy right finish and a rope of 3 where on the left had Gr3 finish but moving quicker, so we decided to sit it out and wait for them to finish off before following them up. Again the climbing was very good with some cracking neve and ice with just enough gear to make it interesting, well worth the wait.

Thanks for a cracking day Barney.