April 2012 Blog Posts (8)

Vertical thoughts/Dave McLeod/Mike Smith

Firstly ,Leo .Your blogs are a pleasure ,particlarly your latest.Which is going to make my next subject a bit ironic in view of

Leo's remarks about learning from being on rock.Has anyone read Dave McLeod's"9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes".I'm thinking of buying but wondering whether it's geared to the high end climber.

Lastly,does anyone have Mike Smith's email address or some method of contact .I was the lat in the chain to borrow his copy of Neil Gresham's…


Added by Brian Knowles on April 24, 2012 at 13:10 — 3 Comments

Things experience has taught me

Although I feel that I…


Added by Leo Woodhead on April 22, 2012 at 14:04 — No Comments

A day out at Burbage North – Sunday 15th April 2012

After a day of dreary weather on…


Added by Leo Woodhead on April 22, 2012 at 11:00 — No Comments

Easter @ Tremadog 2012

I'd not been down to Tremadog for over 10 years and I was ready for a return trip.  If you want to get the best out of climbing this venue you need to be climbing at least VS / HVS.  The forecast wasn't looking to good but the decision was take to go down for 2 days and make the most of it.  One bonus would be it might not be quite as busy as usual.  It was funny reading in BMC Summit mag about Eric Jones he'd bought the cafe in 1979 the first time I'd gone down a young age of 17.  My first…


Added by Derek Kenyon on April 14, 2012 at 16:10 — No Comments

My First E1 – Cameo E1 5a – 20th May 2010

Whilst I am in the zone with writing some blog posts I thought it would be nice to write about my first experience climbing an E1.


For many of us breaking into the extreme grades is or was a massive step. At the time I had probably been leading for just over a year. Looking back now, knowing what I know now I would say I was barely ready for the climb.


The day was like any other; Ian Westerby, Steve Roahmang and I were enjoying a nice warm day at Wilton. We…


Added by Leo Woodhead on April 11, 2012 at 19:05 — No Comments

Developing the head game for climbing

Whilst at a crag in El Chorro I recently heard someone say that climbing is 80% confidence and 20% footwork. To be honest I think this is bang on the money. Without the head game you can technically be a good climber on an indoor wall but if you want to get out there into the mountains the head game is paramount.

Developing a strong head for climbing will rarely come over night. I remember being on routes in the early days as a complete gibbering wreck. Holding on for dear life,… Continue

Added by Leo Woodhead on April 10, 2012 at 17:52 — 2 Comments

MOB trip to Tremadog

Since joining the MOB (Bury Mountaineering Club) I have relished getting out. The added pleasure of climbing with a group, the experiences, the banter and the booze all make for a special weekend away.


The target for last weekend’s get away was the majestic crags of Tremadog. Nestled in the trees a special roadside experience waits. Accessible, generally dry (or quick drying if need be) and fantastic rock brings trad climbers out in droves. For me the sheer quality of the…


Added by Leo Woodhead on April 10, 2012 at 13:30 — No Comments

Climbing back in the 70s

I spotted this small picture in the BMC Summit mag that popped through my door the other day. It was in an article about recording breaking climbs on El Cap in Yosemite. It said these guys broke a record back in 1974. I thought the picture was a spoof but no I found it on the web and it is genuine.

 These guys represent the pinnacal of US West Coast climbing in the 1970s and were called the Stone Masters.…


Added by Nigel Blandford on April 2, 2012 at 16:14 — No Comments

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