The MOB

Minutes 3rd February 2010

As we have mentioned the mob Membership money is due. Ian will be sending off the BMC money.

It was suggested that we re-start the alternate Wednesday climbing wall nights in readiness for the lighter nights and the outdoor season. If any one wants to suggest a venue they can put it on the web site.

First one was to be at Stockport.

Money is now being taken for the Fell Farers hut meet (Kay Shoes for the older members) this is one of the most popular meets on the calendar, which we usually only every two years.

25 pleases available, paid up members will get priority on this meet!

The Roybridge meet in Scotland had been very well attended with everyone taking full advantage of the great winter conditions. Two teams had an early start and headed off up to the Ben. Rick and Mark Davies climbed the classic North East Buttress Gr4 in a respectable time. Never mind the Man Trap they both agreed that the hardest pitch was Slingsbys Chimney Gr2 to start the ridge, soft steep snow with no pro!

B Team Will and Derek went higher up in the Coire and climbed Green Gully Gr4. It was Will first route on the Ben with him leading two of the hard pitches with Derek having to Symo climb due to the lack of belays, good job will didn’t fall off. Great effort considering the ice was not in the best of conditions and he only had a make shift harness due to him forgotten to bring it. Don’t think Will will make that mistake again.

Colin and Mark Rothwell used the gondolier approach to Anoch Mor West face and climb the remote Western Rib 500metes Gr3. Icefall in the lower section leading to a mixed Buttress and a airy arête to finish at the summit.

The route makes for a great mountaineering experience. Due to a long day they missed the last cable car and had to walk down.

Most of the walkers had grouped up and gone to due the Ring of Steel from Glen Nevis but due to time factors had to cut it short. The more experienced lads had shown the new lads some skills including ice axe arrest.

Ian Brewster not able to persuade anyone to accompany him went up Creag Meagaidh via Moy Corrie. Extensive whiteout on the summit plateau but eventually found the summit, then came off via The Window and down into Coire Ardhair

As usual there was the usual banter in the evening and with it having an on site bar we didn’t have far to stagger back to out pits.

Sunday along with Stuart + Steve, Mike + Caroline, did a walk from Blair Atholl. Initially through the grounds of Blair Castle (past statues of Hercules and Diana), then up Glen Tilt for a couple of miles along tarmac lane then
track, across the river via Gilbert's Bridge, then back down the glen on the other side of the river.

Some impressively large thick plates of ice in the river, left over from recent extreme cold. A few showers but sunny at times. ~6.5miles.

Also on the Sunday after a late start the climbers went up to Coire Nan Lochan to climb the classic easy line of Dorsal Arete. The idea was to show some of the new lads the ropes and give them some experience, which I thing they certainly did. Due to the late start and numbers on the climb they had to abort the route “See Marks humorous account on the Mob web site”

Sunday 31st Ian also reports, I started from Kentmere village. Walked up the valley, on W side of river, to Kentmere Reservoir dam. Up onto Yoke via the combe N of
Rainsborrow Crag(had a look at a grade 2 scramble on the crag, but very soon
decided against). From Yoke, around the Kentmere Horseshoe to Kentmere Pike.
Descent back to the reservoir dam, and back to Kentmere down E side of river.
Nice and frozen. HIgh cloud early on, then sunshine from late morning.

Mike Smith had had a good trip to the Alps apart from spraining his ankle.

Rick and Colin had gone up to the Lakes and climbed Joggybar Gully on Nethermost commenting that it was not in that good a condition but made for a good day out.

The evening was finish off with a viewing of the very exciting film the Asgad project in Alaska by Leo Holden

Thanks to Rick for showing it.

Clip copied from the Leo Holden web site

They climbed throughout days in which there were 23 hours of shade and endured sub-zero temperatures and severe ice storms that left 4cm of haw frost on all of their ropes. Leo, fellow Berghaus climber Carlos Suarez and the rest of the team, managed to reach the top just before the route became completely unclimbable. Every aspect of the gruelling climb was captured in high definition by award winning film-maker Alastair Lee. To make all of this possible, the team was given substantial support by Berghaus and leading mobile communications company Nokia. Leo Houlding comments: “Climbing Asgard’s North West face, which is regarded as one of the world’s most difficult big walls, was the greatest challenge I have set myself to date. The climb was extremely tough and we faced a savage ice storm that made us consider retreating, but we finally got enough of a break in the weather to finish the route.” Alastair Lee adds: “We are over the moon that we made it to the top. It has been brutal - thank God we all had the right kit otherwise frost-nip and hyperthermia would have had us by now.” He continued: “It has been such a hard experience for all of us and we are physically and psychologically exhausted. My hands are in pieces and just unzipping my sleeping bag is agony - I can't wait to get back to civilization. We haven't showered for a month and we've had our fill of freeze dried rations.

“Though destroyed and surviving on painkillers and anti-inflamatories we're all in good spirits. The river crossings that were waist deep ragging torrents on the way up are now trickles we can boulder hop across without removing boots. I can almost taste the fresh food and beer. “ In preparation for the epic climb, Leo completed three crucial training expeditions, to Riglos in Spain, Brento in Italy and the world famous Yosemite National Park in the USA. On each trip, Leo and climbing partners tackled major big walls and tested and refined the techniques that would make the difference between failure and success on Asgard. He was also supplied with some prototypes of new Berghaus products to put to the test throughout the year. Full details of the Asgard expedition can be found at

www.theasgardproject.com