As most of you know, I am Spanish, from Mallorca. I came here 9 Month ago to start an adventure, a new leaf in my life.

My passions are mountains and climbing, I am an IT professional and my Hobby is programming unmanned vehicles leaded by microcontrollers, and fortunately I met the MOB in the right place at the right time.

The first thing I did when I arrived was go to climbing wall, and there was when I met Graham, and later Derek. I joined to MOB quite early and I started to participate in all summer exits; it was my first contact with trad climbing. I had to change my mind to get used to climbing gear and climbing more thinking about gear than holds and body movements.

In Those times, Derek taught me the dark art of trad climbing, he lent me his gear to let me climb a lot of routes in differents crags, starting by top rope and finally leading some easy route (in term of sport climb, but not in terms of trad climbing) reaching my top trad climbing level in Wilton 3, leading "Kay - VS". Thank you for having looked after me.

Whilst weather allowed us to visit a lot of crags and quarry, we went to some other really beautiful venues to do some bouldering (as Llanberis in Wales, Raven Tor in Peak District or Seathwaite in Lake District) and of course to enjoy the trip. It was still summer and sunshine predominated, midges came in and bit every single piece of uncovered skin. My skin was itching along more than one month. The worst day was in Tintwistle Knar where I went with Derek to find out a new crag (over a reservoir) and a big cloud of midges followed us everywhere we moved.

I've climbed on gritstone, limestone and volcanic rock, and definitely I'd rather gritstone than any other one, even spanish limestone, It's the most technical and where you need to keep fit all your body (from feet to fingertips) to keep and stick on the wall.

Finally, the last 22nd of January I presented a film exposing all venues I've been last 9 months which I've tried to transmit energy and what it is for me climbing and to be with good company. The Music is from Red Hoody (Graham´s band). It's 14 minutes long, but it's quite intensive and I think  it's something worth to pay attention every second of footage. I haven't pretented to make a blockbuster, I've only pretended to do a film where and how a foreign man see UK at different point of view. I hope you enjoy watching it.

Spots in the film:

Deeply Vale: What I can tell you about Deeply Vale that you don't know. It was my first outdoor climbing day in UK, my first experience with trad climbing,  and where I met most of MOB members. Definitely, good job cleaning the crag!.

Wilton 1: BMC celebrate here the annual climbing festival; lots of climbers, barbecue, beer a a cup od tea. BMC gave me a t-shirt with their logo, and then they did a raffle which Tim won a guide that he gave me as a present! thx!

Standedge: I'll never forget "Terrordaktil". This name deserves the problem, look the video to know what I mean. Vicky redpointed a good problems, and became so happy (as always). I did a new traverse which doesn't appear in the guide, good traverse with scary-high end.

Black Crag - Wrynose: Really good day for Derek who redpointed Needle Arete (E3, the only one who could manage it), and he did a soloing (no gear to place) in a flat and slab wall... I couldn't believe what I was watching... please watch the video to see it.

Llanberis - Wales: My first time to Wales, the most beautiful venue I've ever visited in UK. The best volcanic rock I've ever touched (really rough). My first V10! ("Lotus", on papers, on the guide...to be honest not more than V6). We tried a classic (Lordry, Lordry), but we couldn't manage to do.

Cratcliffe: The egg boulder (I tried more than 10 times, quite balance, slope, greasy but I finally did, I'm so proud), Jerry's traverse, Razor roof. Good gritstone, it may be so greasy and a bit wet.

Robin Hood Stride: Beside Cratcliffe, good problems as well. Special memory for the V5 mantle and the cave (V6).

Malham Cove: I put in the film a footage filmed by a quadricopoter (helicopter with 4 rotors, auto-balanced) to show you a wide and full shot of the cove to realise so intimidating it is the place. I think it is the best limestone and sport climbing I've been (and it may be the best in UK). There is river starting underneath the cove that makes the place still more beatiful and lovely. I have a good project called Bongoo fury, and it was funny how one day we went to try this route, but we left the guide in the car, and instead this one I got on one of the most popular F8a in UK (raindogs), where the last move it's a dyno to grab the chain and food hold are massive polished.

Burbage South: Good mix between trad climibng and bouldering. Derek did in a pretty sunny day the arete, meanwhile others became frustrated with a F6b problem. It's a good place to go back and enjoy the venue and all climbing stuff it can offer you.

Castlebergh: First Graham's F6c+. Jo's mother town. When Graham was attempintg to tick, Jo's mother arrived ,and she was watching how Graham climbed, I think it gave him extra power to keep on the wall!

Chapel Head: I love English green fields. The way from the car to the crag is full of energy, with intensive green grass and happy sheep eating everywhere. There is a route called “tufa king” which it remembers some of Mallorca’s tufas, but far to be the same.

Ashworth Moor: I came across Robin (one of the most fanatic climbers I’ve ever seen) and we’ve got a funny afternoon climbing new problems in a new area which it will be included in new Robin’s guide (Lancashire Bouldering, still looking forward it).

Brownstone: We met up lots of MOB members, and climb very high problems and others really hard of Robin's hand.

Earl Crag: Good trad climbing and good landscape. The tower on top of the crag is quite particular.

West Nab: We did some funny problems, and got fun.

Hobson Moor: It is a crag near Manchester, and it’s a good place to climb a bit with only a few hours off, despite that,  it’s a good place and it has a good traverse on the black wall (F6c) or even more the full quarry (F6c+).

Tintwistle Knarr: I went with Derek to find out a new crag, but what we found was midges, although we climb one route.

Almscliff: One of the best bouldering areas I’ve been, really good gritstone and It was here where I did my first V7 (Crucifx arête) and many other V6 and V5. Every day I feel stronger with grit!

Rochdale Wall: Good night with good company in the Curry climbing night, with more than 20 MOB members.

Stockport Wall: We’ve gone a few times, but the best it was Vicky’s birthday and her cake!.

Raven Tor: The hardest crag I’ve visited in UK. Limestone crag, and it may be too much polished. There is still one of my projects for 2014: Weedkiller traverse.

Rock Over Climbing: The best climbing wall I have ever been. The best place to train and try hard new problems every month (re-setter), circuits, beast maker wall and friendly staff.

Stanage: I went with Jim and with the Spanish twins. We had a really good day (and sunny). The green traverse still is on my mind.

Giggleswick North: It’s a limestone cave with huge tufas. We stopped there after a hard day climbing in Chapel head to try on sight a F7a. It was so frustrating, either it is not  F7a nor something there is broken.

Broughton Wall: It’s a climbing wall simulating a real rock, with tufas, pockets, crimps, tufas. There are hundreds of problems documented. It was one of the first climbing wall in Manchester and still it’s cool.

Troy: Good crag, We did some good route before started to rain. I still was struggling with gear and It was my first falling in trad climbing (close to ground, and quite good protected).

Chee Dale: We stopped to take a look this crag near Raven Tor to know if it worth to go again.  There is a river and a lot of routes on both side. The crag was pretty wet, and definitely it’s a summer crag.

Wilton 3: Good rock climbing day with Derek, My best trad climbing route is there (Kay).

Rowtor Rocks: Brilliant problems, they may be too hard (from V6), but the place has special charm that attract me from first sight. It was inhabited by druids, and it’s full of carved and digged holes where they lived. Definitely we have to go back.

Rubicon: Another good limestone crag, with most similar routes to Mallorca’s routes; Rubicon (F7a). The river and swans make the place so beautiful.

Trowbarrow: The only place we could climbing raining! The red wall is a little bit overhanging and keeps dry even after a light rains!. The ramp (V5) is a classic.

Manchester Climbing Center: Climbing in a church, OMG!

Woodwell: Really hard limestone problems, we didn’t have too much time to try anything hard.

Seathwaite:  Placed in lake district, it has a quite good circuit. This day the Gandalf wand gave me power (the blue climbing stick).

Thorn Crag: With permission of royal family and hunters, we went few times to climb on one of the best gritstone areas, where I have still one project (Mothership reconnection) and Graham did a really hard V5 (2001 a grit odisy).

 

And now, I look forward to climbing on ice!

 

Ivan Guardia

I am a person who likes Life and loves Mountains, so I am in the right place.

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Comment by Derek Kenyon on January 28, 2014 at 21:05

Thanks for that Ivan, you have been a busy boy.  Glad you've enjoy you stay with the Mob, its been a pleasure having you on board ,lets hope we can build on that with a successful trip to Majorca and a productive UK season.   

Comment by Graham Stevens on January 27, 2014 at 0:42
Nice one, Ivan! Watching the film brings back a lot of great memories of all the days out we've had since you arrived in the uk - from sunburn in the lakes and wales, to midges at deeply, to sheltering from the rain at trowbarrow and freezing to death at Almscliff! It sums up what climbing is really like - brilliant! Long live the MOB indeed. G

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